The Nerello grapes, Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, are astonishing me each time I try them.

Grown on the sides of Mount Etna (only, as far as I know) give a deliciously ripe, dark fruit wine but with an unusual spicy, mineral, peppery style. Not overripe, but nicely concentrated.

This pair of Etna wines are definitely worth seeking out (the White is very good too) from The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com), both at £10.95

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